Loved Falasarna beach’s gorgeous turquoise water and golden sand (though I could have done without the oddly redneck beach cafe). If Elise had had her way, we would have body surfed the waves from morning till night. But hunger eventually led us back to Kissamos in search of real food. We managed to find the highly recommended though completely unpretentious seaside Sunset Taverna, where we had grilled swordfish caught right off the shore and sauteed wild greens from the mountains of Crete. As is her habit, Elise made friends with the local cat, who probably feasted a little too well on swordfish that night.