So we hit the last of the epic beaches on Crete’s western coast, Elafonisi, which had perfectly turquoise water and the gentlest waves yet. Water clarity was not as good as Falasarna or Balos, but who cares! it was awesome! We met a very sweet jewelry designer, Katerina of Cretan Art Seeds, who accessorized us with necklaces, bracelets and anklets made of shells and seeds. In the evening, we stayed at a guest house in nearby Paleohora, with wildflowers tumbling over every wall and a veritable chirping bird/cicada orchestra. Blissful! Dinner was at To Skolio, a cliffside courtyard restaurant with valley views, where we sampled the baked zuccini with feta cheese, Greek salad and giant beans in tomato sauce. It would have been perfect except that, as an open air restaurant, nearly every local person around us puffed away on their cigarettes.