After arriving by ferry in Kos, we skipped touristy Kos Town and headed straight for the relatively empty beaches of Kefalos Bay in the southwest of the island. Our hotel was paces from Agios Stefanos Beach, which had more rocks than we’re used to (thanks to Crete’s dazzling sandy beaches), but it more than made up for that given its crystal-clear water, picturesque 5th century ruins right on the beach, and photogenic islet sporting a tiny church just off the shore. The island feels much more laid back than Crete and Rhodes, which is a welcome thing as we near the end of our travel adventure. We dined at an incredibly peaceful spot on the beach, where the moonlight reflected on the water and cast a ghostly glow upon the tiny islet. In spite of her choice of 8 beaches along the 12km Bay, my little Knucklehead preferred to swim in the hotel pool.